Mt. Pulag in Kabayan, Benguet

Mt. Pulag or Pulog (meaning bald because not many trees survive in that altitude) is the highest peak of Luzon Island, Philippines, rising to 3,000 meters above sea level. What separates it from other mountains is its tundra environment or grassland which is actually not plain grass but dwarf bamboo. The hike trail from the campsite area to the peak has a literal carpet of Bermuda grass that softens one’s weary steps. But the best vista treat of all is an unobstructed view of the Cordilleras and the La Union and Nueva Vizcaya hills and plains, but only after the pre-dawn’s cover of clouds rolls down.

Imagine yourself standing on the peak, seeing only clouds at your feet and all the way to where the faint sunlight begins to conquer the horizon. As the King of Lights slowly heats up the atmosphere, the clouds crawl away from you as if somebody is pulling a carpet from where you stand. And what that gradually reveals are the varying verdant and chocolate-colored hills and purple mounts of the Cordilleras surrounding Mt. Pulag. As the sun overwhelms the darkness, all of nature celebrates a new day’s birth. A vision and experience enough to lead us campers to sing and shout praises to heaven.

Temperatures on Pulag during the months of January and February could go down to minus 4 degrees Celsius. Enough to freeze mineral water, soup or wet laundry left outside the tents. The socks I had left on the tent ropes to dry were mistaken for boomerangs by my students! Another student showed me how his frozen pair of pants could stand by itself.

So many other stories await to be told about the couple of times some of us UP Baguio instructors took our Biology and Surveying students on what we called Tahak sa Pulag (Trek to Pulag) science class field trips in 1995 and 1997. For Filipinos unaccustomed to ice and snow (sorry, no snow on Pulag) and the pristine pleasures of this last frontier, our treks convinced us how much hidden national treasures we have around us. Pity that so many others do not realize this.

(Photo above was taken with an analog 35mm Canon SLR exposed for three minutes at full opening. Stars produced streaks of light during that long exposure under a full-moonlight condition.)

Trekkers, like ants following a trail in the photo above, find their way back to the campsite after fetching water from the spring located in a glen where the shot was taken.

No bathing or washing is allowed right at the spring to prevent pollution. The water is so cool, clean and clear that one's idea of "fresh mountain spring water" attains a sublime and ethereal meaning.

Trekkers take a last look at the peak of Mt. Pulag on their way down. Ah, it's actually the camera they're looking at. (That's me at the extreme right beside Weng Narcelles, a good friend and dear brother in faith.)

Mt. Pulag

the dust of your past blinds the weary trekker

ere he walks in the mist of your glorious baldness.

to the island of grandeur spread at your feet

you stand crowned with ancient serenity.

who does not yearn for a whisk of your pure rarified breath?

or a glimpse of your vision of half of the universe?

only the lame of mind,

only the blind of faith.

a thousand nights of city-lights fade in your evening caress;

sub-zero mornings cover the grass with eerie frosted silence

and i cling to your warm embrace -

a trembling worm on the ground.

you pull down your blanket of cloud as you greet the sun

and i awaken to your emerald life, a new creation.

as noontime sizzles in the brisk thin atmosphere,

dry toasted brown hills bulge like waves on a voiceless sea.

the waters of heaven cascade and creep under your skin

to nourish the plains below, yes, to bless thirsty creatures.

yet you leave just enough to quench me in my wanderings

for you get enough without asking and give enough without murmuring.

life springs faithfully and eternally from your bosom!

like a child at play I visit your secret places

looking for traces of those who call you mother.

sacred altar of an ageless generation,

balm of many a burdened heart,

i soar once more to be with you

in my dreams!

-vmr